This page covers the assembly of a Wabi bike, including a video overview. Please read everything carefully.
A few thing things to keep in mind up front:
- Your build comes 90% assembled so you don't need to take it to a bike shop. Most customers assemble it themselves. As of 2/7/22, 60cm Special and Thunder builds will require additional assembly as the fork is removed for shipping. See video link and notes below.
- However, if you have any doubts about your ability to properly assemble your bike, Wabi Cycles strongly recommends you find a local bike mechanic to do the work. This is not expensive, and is usually quick and easy. Through rare, damage due to improperly assembly is not covered by warranty.
- You'll only need a few tools to assemble the bike. They are listed below.
- If you have questions or concerns, contact us.
Wabi Bicycle Build Assembly Video
Here is a short video that covers most of the unpacking and assembling of the bike. Use this video along with the text summary below to ensure everything goes smoothly.
For 60cm builds where the fork is removed for shipping, please see this video.
Wabi Bicycle Build Assembly Instructions
This is a step-by-step instructions to accompany the video.
Unpacking and Inspecting Your Bike Upon Arrival
- Upon receiving the box, check to see if there is any significant damage to the box. If so, please take a picture for future reference.
- When opening the box, be careful to fold back the top flaps so the bike doesn't catch on staples when removed.
- Unpack any loose items like saddles and pedals before removing the bike.
- Pull the entire bike out by grabbing the top tube and pulling the bike and packaging out. Set it on a soft surface and well supported.
- Using scissors and/or wire snips, take care when removing plastic wrapping, zip ties and the foam tube wrap--especially if you are using sharp objects like knives or scissors that can scratch the paint.
- When unpacking, you'll notice black plastic protectors on the front fork and rear dropouts. These can be easily removed by gently tapping them out. There is no hidden catch or attachment.
- After you fully unpack the bike, check to make sure everything looks okay.
- Also, check to make sure there are no more parts left in the box.
- If you find any issues, please contact us immediately.
Assembling Your Bike
To assemble your bike, you will need at least a 4mm, 5mm and 6mm allen wrench / hex key. You may also want 3mm and 8mm wrenches for other minor installations and adjustments. Here is a breakdown of how those wrenches are used:
- 3mm - Bottle mount bolts for a bottle cage (if needed).
- 4mm - Stem bolts to mount handlebars (required).
- 5mm - Seat post binder bolt for seatpost/saddle and wheel bolts to install front wheel (required).
- 6mm - Saddle bolt adjustment and most pedal installations.
- 8mm - VP Urban pedal installation (if needed).
- Air pump with Presta valve adapter.
- Bike grease
- We recommend using high quality allen wrench / hex keys that have the precision and quality for assembly / disassembly. We recommend bike-specific brands like Park Tool or Pedros.
- Ensure you are using metric-sized wrenches and not SAE (English/Imperial) wrenches that are look similar in size but are actually slightly smaller or larger. Using those wrenches will strip the bolt heads.
- Ensure wrenches are fully seated in the bolts to avoid stripping or having the wrench pop out and then damage the bike.
- Avoid using the 'ball-end' of wrenches when initially loosening/fully tightening bolts as they can strip the bolt heads at higher torques.
- Avoid using multi-tools or smaller wrenches for bolts with higher torques (over 10Nm) as you many not get the seating or leverage to remove the bolt properly. We recommend individual high-quality wrenches that ensure they bolts can be properly installed/removed without issues.
The instructions below also reference torque settings for a metric torque wrench. One is not required for installation and we provide some guidance on approximating these torque settings by hand at the bottom of the assembly section.
To unpack your bike, we also recommend scissors, a utility knife and wire snips.
Lastly, we also recommend grease for any any bolts on the bike and the seatpost. All of our bolts on the existing build (handlebars, wheels, etc.) are pre-greased, but you'll need grease for the seatpost and pedals.
Your bike was completely assembled and tested before being packed for shipment. The shipping process requires us to remove a few items, which you will have to reinstall, or not install items, such as pedals, so they will need to be installed.
Remove the 4 bolts on the face plate of the stem. Position your handlebars properly. Use the 4 bolts from the face plate to secure the handlebars. Tighten by hand, evenly until snug. Then, in an X pattern, continue tightening ¼ turn each to 4Nm (35 inch/lbs).
Front Wheel Installation
Use the bolts supplied with your wheel and tighten to 10Nm (88 inch/lbs). Note that your brakes have quick releases (QR) to allow removing the wheel easier. Place the cam in the up position for removing and installing wheels. Make sure you switch the cam down for riding—otherwise your brakes may not work properly.
Seatpost and Saddle Installation
IMPORTANT NOTE: The left side (non-drive-side) of the seat binder bolt on the Classic, Special and Thunder frames ) is a keyed nut and should not be turned. You should only turn the right side of the seat binder bolt while ensuring the nut is on the non-drive side is fully seated in the key. Failure to follow this instruction could result in stripping the seat binder bolt and damaging your frame.
When inserting the seat post, be sure to insert the seat post past the minimum insertion point marked on the seat post itself. For Classics and Thunders, we recommend inserting the post an additional 1/4". Failing to do so can crack the frame (and is not covered under warranty). If you are near the insertion point and are a heavier rider (over 225 pounds), we recommend using a longer seatpost. Please contact us for options.
Tighten seat binder bolt to 5Nm (44 inch/lbs). You should only turn the right side of the seat binder bolt. Remember to use grease or anti-seize on the inside of the seat tube before installing the seat post to ensure it does not seize (aka get stuck) in the seat tube down the road. You should also remove your post and re-grease or re-apply anti-seize annually to prevent seizing.
If you need to loosen and retighten your saddle, the Wabi seat post allows you to both slide the saddle forward and backward on the rails as well as adjust the angle of the saddle. When tightening down, the recommended torque on the saddle bolt is 22Nm. Be sure to check the position and angle before fully tightening.
Rear Wheel Tightening
While we secure the rear wheel during assembly, there is a chance that it may get loosened during shipping. Double check to make sure it is secure before riding. Tighten the rear wheel bolts as needed to 10Nm (88 inch/lbs).
If you purchased pedals, keep in mind that the left and right pedals are threaded differently to ensure the pedals don't spin off. The right/drive-side pedal is traditionally threaded where it tightens clockwise. The left/non-drive side pedal is reversed threaded where it tightens counter-clockwise. The pedals are typically labeled L/R. If you can't find a marking, you can distinguish the pedals by the threading. If are you looking at the pedal with the spindle facing upward, the left pedal has a threading that goes downward from left to right and the right pedals goes downward from right to left.
Pedals should typically torque 35-40Nm (though it is difficult to use a torque wrench on pedals), This would be significantly tight - almost as much as you can tighten. It is important to tighten them properly so they don't come loose and cross-thread the spindle hole on the crank. Also, be sure to grease the pedal spindle before installing.
The tires on your build are deflated for shipping so they will need to be inflated. Before inflating, we recommend checking to make sure that the tube inside the tire did not get displaced during shipping and may be pinched between the tire and the rim. Look along the edge of the tire and rim to make sure the tube is not showing.
Attach your pump and inflate to your desired PSI. Do not exceed the PSI of the tire. You can find it listed on the sidewall of the tire.
Also, when you begin to inflate the tire, check between the rim and tire again to make sure the tube isn't being pinched as you inflate or there isn't a bulge in the tire. We recommend inspecting the tire at about 40-50 PSI before proceeding. If you see the tube or a bulge, deflate the tire and then reposition the tube within the tire and begin again.
Given recent changes to shipping charges for larger boxes by carrier, we can no longer ship 60cm builds fully assembled. We will need to remove the front fork to get the build into a smaller box. This means the fork will need to be re-installed as well as the front brake caliper. This isn't a difficult job, but will require additional steps vs. our standard builds.
If you plan on doing it by hand feel, here are some things to keep in mind.
- The inch/lbs measurement is the equivalent of the amount of pounds applied one inch away from the center of the bolt. You can think of this as the amount of weight applied at the end of a 1 inch allen wrench. The amount of weight required will decrease as the wrench gets longer (or how far out you apply the weight). It will be halved as you double the distance.
- For example, 53 inch/lbs is 53 lbs applied at the end of a one inch allen wrench, 26.5 pounds would be applied for a 2 inch wrench,13.25 would be applied for a 4 inch wrench and so on.
- One way to think about applying this pressure is equivalent to lifting the wrench clockwise to lifting a dumbbell of the same weight (depending on the wrench length).
After you have ridden your bike a few times, check to ensure the crank arm bolts are tightened to 40Nm (354 inch/lbs)—these may loosen as the arms seat themselves.
- Always wear your helmet and other protective gear.
- Wabi never recommends removing your brakes, as cool as it may look!
- To prevent rusting and to keep your frame’s finish in the best shape, your bike should always be stored indoors.
- Anytime the bike gets wet or dirty, you should clean and dry the entire bike upon return.
- The chain should be lubricated frequently, especially after it gets wet.
- A little grease should be applied to the seat post anytime it’s removed, and keep an eye on the inside of the seat tube for rust, as that’s the area most exposed to water. If you do find rust, simply wipe it off and apply some grease.
Thank you for your purchase. From all of us at Wabi Cycles, we wish you many years of enjoyment on your beautiful new bike.
If you run into any problems, feel free to contact us with questions.